Bernkastel-Kues

Bernkastel-Kues sits at the heart of the Middle Mosel, often called the "Pearl of the Moselle" for good reason -- a town split by the river into Bernkastel (east bank) and Kues (west bank), joined by a bridge, and surrounded by some of the steepest cultivated vineyards in Europe. The Riesling grown on these slate hillsides is considered among Germany's finest, with the Bernkastel wine region alone accounting for over 5,600 hectares of vineyards. The real draw, though, is Bernkastel's medieval market square -- tightly packed with well-preserved 17th-century half-timbered houses, centered on the tiny Spitzhaeuschen ("Pointed House"), built in 1416 with a ground floor narrower than the floors above it, giving the whole building a distinctive wobbly look. St. Michael's Fountain and the late-Renaissance Rathaus round out the square. For a steeper outing, the 9th-century Landshut Castle ruins sit above town, a half-mile climb with sweeping views back over the river and vineyards as the reward. A fun small detail: Bernkastel-Kues has a town square named Karlsbader Platz, after its partner city -- Karlovy Vary, known historically as Karlsbad in German.